It's always exciting to see new timepieces from Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC), even those based on previous models. The famed 'polo watchmaker' has reimagined its intriguing multiple-complication Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 in three striking variations.
While this set of watches may not have the 'shock and awe' look of the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184, the timepieces have an unmistakable JLC look.
Two models are presented in platinum with rich blue dials, one with a polished bezel and another adorned with 72 baguette-cut diamonds. The third appears in warm pink gold with a deep brown dial. First introduced in 2013, the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 combines a moon phase display, a flying tourbillon, and a perpetual calendar.
A Movement Born of Precision
At the heart of each piece lies the automatic Calibre 985, a 431-part movement. Its titanium flying tourbillon has 83 components and weighs a mere 0.386 grams. The movement includes a cylindrical hairspring, dating back to 1776. Why is that interesting? It ensures enhanced isochronism and concentric oscillations in any position.
While the design remained mostly ignored until the 21st century, JLC insists that the shape offers more efficiency in limiting the effects of gravity and magnetism. We're simply not qualified to put this through a lab test, and the watchmaker has gained enough trust, so we'll take their word for it.
The resulting precision allows the seamless integration of a perpetual calendar and moon phase. According to JLC, the moon phase will remain accurate for 122 years without requiring any adjustments.
Visible through the sapphire caseback, the movement reveals hand-finishing that includes blued screws, sunrayed Côtes de Genève, and delicate bevelling. A 22k rose gold rotor engraved with a reproduction of the medal Antoine LeCoultre won at the 1851 Great Exhibition adds refined artistry and historical resonance. With that detail, it appears JLC is just showing off its craftsmanship, but that's not really a bad thing.
Craftsmanship in Every Detail
The attention to detail evident in the movements is also visible in the case, which features more than 80 components. Its design combines polished, brushed, and micro-blasted surfaces, with screwed-in lugs that highlight its complexity.
The diamond-set version illustrates Jaeger-LeCoultre's in-house Métiers Rares™ craftsmanship, where 72 baguette-cut diamonds (approximately 3.4 carats) are set into the bezel over 15 hours of gem-setting work.
On the dial, micro-blasted minute tracks contrast with opaline sub-dials, whose color subtly shifts with the light. Relief-engraved numerals enhance legibility, while the seconds are displayed on a distinctive 20-second arc below the tourbillon aperture. Each hand of the tourbillon cage marks an interval as the mechanism completes its 60-second rotation.
All three versions of the watch feature a 42mm case, measuring 13.27mm in thickness, with a water resistance rating of 50 m (5 bar). The Calibre 985 beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a 45-hour power reserve.
The platinum case timepieces come with a blue alligator strap, while the pink gold one comes with a brown alligator strap that complements the hue of the case perfectly. So, which will it be? Pink gold, clean platinum, or platinum with diamonds?
