Anyone familiar with MB&F knows you can't use the word 'conventional' in the same sentence as the Swiss watch brand. The horological concept laboratory, known for defying traditional watchmaking tenets, takes a bold step into new territory with its latest release: the SP(Special Project) One.
At first glance, this 38mm timepiece might seem like a departure from the brand's typical futuristic flair. But look closer, and you'll see a masterclass in balance - between restraint and audacity, elegance and complexity. It's a classic MB&F creation that defies every traditional definition of "classic."
Code-named "Three Circles" during its development, the SP One embodies a trinity of levitating components - the barrel, the balance wheel, and the dial, each appearing to hover in a sapphire-encased amphitheater. This gravity-defying illusion is no trick of the eye but the result of meticulous engineering.
Regardless of what MB&F says in its press release, this watch is one of the more 'normal' looking pieces from the Swiss company, but as mentioned above, that perception changes the second you start to inspect the details. Contrast that with the bold and unique designs of pieces like the MB&F Serpenti or the HM Architect.
A tilted dial and conical gearing offer a fresh, dimensional approach to time display, while the balance wheel, suspended at two o'clock, spins like a miniature UFO (well, at least the perception of what a UFO looks like given current stereotypical descriptions). MB&F's minimalist architecture conceals almost everything else beneath the surface, letting the drama of these elements unfold in full view.
Flip the watch over, and you're treated to the intricate details of the hand-finished parts that display the craftmanship the watchmaker is known for. MB&F compares the watch's slim dome shape to a smooth pebble picked out of a riverbed, aiming to show the artistic flair of the nearly bezel-free design.
Despite its slim form - just 12mm thick - the SP One is far from flat in spirit. Its "pebble case," available in platinum or rose gold, feels like a tactile treasure, refined through years of concept sketching and collaboration.
But MB&F quickly reminds us that despite being the slimmest watch they've ever made, there is no intention to go after records in that category. Point well taken, given the profile of the top dogs in this space, like Bulgari's Octo Finissimo and Piaget's Altiplano.
The watch is powered by an in-house movement featuring a manual winding mainspring and a 72-hour power reserve. The balance frequency is 2.5Hz, and the jewel count is 31. Water resistance is at 30 meters.
The lugs are ingeniously detached, lifting subtly from the lower case to enhance the watch's visual levitation. The finish? As always, MB&F's legendary attention to artisanal detail is on full display, from the platinum 950 or 18K rose gold case, to polished bevels and engraved bridges.
The SP One's elegant design and the context of its creation set it apart. Born from a desire to surprise - crafted in the quiet aftermath of pandemic-era reflection - it reflects a watchmaker doubling down on creativity instead of playing it safe.
The result is a timepiece that feels like a turning point that invites new audiences into the world of MB&F while keeping its avant-garde soul firmly in place.
In the SP One, MB&F delivers something unexpected yet unmistakably theirs - a mechanical poem written in three dimensions, wrapped in classical elegance and destined to orbit on the wrists of those who truly appreciate the art of horology.
