A certain level of excitement builds up every time there's a new announcement of an MB&F project. The company simply doesn't know how to build mundane watches. Instead, each new timepiece tries to push the envelope of what's possible. Maximilian Büsser's latest timepiece was done in collaboration with high-jewelry mastermind Bulgari. It was motivated by one of the most iconic collections from the jeweler, The Serpenti.
It's only fair to state that MB&F watches often have an eccentric touch and may not be everyone. However, regardless of how you feel about their bold designs, there's no denying the artistry involved.
The Serpenti jewelry collection was first introduced in 1948 and currently includes everything from earrings, bracelets, chokers, rings, wristwatches, and even sunglasses (basically every jewelry category you can think of). Ask Bulgari about Serpenti, and they'll likely tell you it is an emblem of elegance, sensuality, and eternal transformation.
Marketing jargon aside, the collection makes an unmistakable statement of being about the best of fine art in the form of jewelry. Bringing MB&F to the party was just going to add some additional spice to a collection that has proven to be one of Bulgari's most loved. The new Bulgari MB&F Serpenti timepiece represents a fusion of haute horology and masterful craftsmanship.
It brings together two of the most innovative forces in watchmaking for a creation that's designed to impress. When horological artists like Max Büsser and Bulgari's Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani (Director of Watch Design and the brain behind the Octo Finissimo) collaborate on a project, you don't need to be told that the result is something very special.
The Serpenti motif, often wrapped around the wrist in gold and gemstones, now takes on an entirely new form through MB&F's radical vision. It is transformed into a mechanical serpent with a biomorphic case design. This joint effort follows the successful MB&F x Bulgari LM FlyingT Allegra, released in 2021, and pushes boundaries even further.
The new watch is a mechanical marvel housed in a 39mm case, though its elongated profile (53mm x 39mm x 18mm) gives it a striking presence on the wrist. Its intricate, flowing curves, machined using five-axis 3D milling technology to achieve its complex geometry, hints at a design process that took some effort.
This offers a glimpse at how far MB&F will go to make a statement. The press release goes into gory details of the process of building this fine timepiece, but we'll spare you the tech talk and concentrate on the result.
The watch features five sapphire crystals, including the serpent's eyes, which enhance its aesthetic and provide a view of the movement. The case is available in three limited-edition variations: grade 5 titanium with blue domes, 18K rose gold with green domes, and black PVD-coated stainless steel with red domes. Each evokes a different personality for the mechanical serpent.
The movement powering the timepiece is as groundbreaking as its exterior. Designed and developed entirely in-house by MB&F, the manual-winding caliber reimagines traditional time-telling through two domed displays that serve as the serpent's eyes. The left dome rotates in 12 hours to indicate the hours, while the right dome completes a full revolution in 60 minutes to display the minutes.
These ultra-thin aluminum domes are crafted to reduce weight and feature Super-LumiNova, to give the watch an illuminated, hypnotic gaze in the dark. Driving this unique system is an oversized 14mm flying balance wheel with four regulating screws, which beats at 2.5Hz.
It is held in place by a three-dimensional bridge with the names of both brands etched onto it. The movement features a 45-hour power reserve, with the indicator subtly located on the back and visible through the sapphire window. The watch is water-resistant to a depth of 30 meters.
Beyond its horological innovation, the Serpenti timepiece subtly integrates influences from the automotive world. Büsser and Stigliani share a passion for car design, and elements of streamlined bodywork, 'stepped' sapphire windows reminiscent of supercar aerodynamics, and crown details resembling wheels have made their way into the timepiece.
The movement, visible through multiple sapphire panels, even evokes the look of an engine grille, reinforcing the connection between high-performance engineering and sculptural elegance.
Only 99 pieces will be made (33 for each color variation), and there's a one year waiting period for delivery. However, for many, it may not be too much to ask for the privilege of placing this bold Serpenti watch on their wrist.
